Dancing in the northern night sky

Enlarge Image

Marie-France Coallier / Postmedia News When the going gets tough, many head for a Canada Goose parka, $510 at StyleXchange. (CNS MONTREAL GAZETTE)

Enlarge Image

Government of Yukon / Cathie Archbould Yukon�s capital, Whitehorse, is less than a three-hour flight from Calgary and is one the best places to view Mother Nature�s dazzling display. (CNS HANDOUT)

The excitement in the cool, night air is so palpable, you feel like you're swallowing a mouthful of anticipation along with the hot-chocolate concoction in your Thermos. Decked out in a warm winter hooded down parka that reaches your knees, your feet encased in Arctic-worthy insulated boots, it's impossible not to realize you're in for something special.

As you crane your neck towards the night sky, a glimmer appears. So faint and subtle at first, you aren't sure you've seen what you've been waiting for -- so you hold your breath and wait for the next streak of light. Its arrival is startling: an undulating ribbon radiating an otherworldly shade of luminescent green with the occasional streak of magenta -- intense, ephemeral, bold yet delicate. The next one is bigger, deeper, fuller, as is the next, until the entire sky glows.

Beginning in late August and running to mid-April, the aurora borealis is one of Mother Nature's most dazzling and remarkable spectacles. Most commonly explained as "a luminous glow of the upper atmosphere caused by energetic particles that enter the atmosphere from above," such descriptions roll out as awfully clinical words to describe a phenomenon so spectacular it can only be called magical.

And Whitehorse, the capital of Canada's Yukon Territory and less than a three-hour flight from Calgary, is among the best places to witness the show.

Nestled in a broad valley through which the Yukon River winds, the "Wilderness City" of 24,000 is a low, sprawling mélange of historic wooden gold-rush-era buildings, cosy coffee shops, modern grocery stores and low-rise buildings colourfully decorated with captivating murals.

It exudes an ambience of relaxed-yet-adventurous living amid momentous northern Canadian history. Surrounded by a landscape of low hills and, farther on the horizon, larger mountains flanked by ridges extending for kilometres, Whitehorse is the ideal launching point for a palate of aurora-viewing adventures.

Signing up with one of several local tour operators guarantees a memorable adventure, complete with the comfort of heated tents or cabins, hot drinks, snacks and a ready supply of hand-warmers. Or, for those who prefer to skip the tour-supplied parka and boots, Mount Lorne B&B (yukonrecreation.com) even offers viewing from an outdoor hot tub.

Sebastian Altenberger, of Northern Tales Aurora Tours (auroraborealisyukon.com), says staging their aurora-viewing adventure north of Whitehorse from a high point that offers a clean line of sight in all directions provides the ideal ingredients for a spectacular show.

"North of the city there is no light at all," he explains. "The sky is completely free of light pollution, so the northern lights are so much brighter."

Complete with airport pickup, organized tours range from single evening excursions to multi-day packages that could include a hot breakfast in a private heated tent, tobogganing, snowshoeing and historical tours of Whitehorse, along with the Frostbite Music Festival and the Yukon Sourdough Rendezvous -- a raucous weeklong party featuring flour packing, dogsled races, whip sawing and chainsaw chucking. Better still, catch the finish line at the world's toughest annual sled-dog race, the Fairbanks to Whitehorse Yukon Quest, as part of your aurora-viewing extravaganza.

Originally from Austria, Altenberger visited Whitehorse for a few days eight years ago, but quickly became hooked on the vast wilderness of the north, admitting he loves winter.

"Most of our guests have seen pictures and have always wanted to see the aurora," Altenberger says. "After eight years, I still find it very mystical. Most of our guests are quiet -- they're just astonished."

Most aurora tourists come from Japan, China, Brazil, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand, the U.K. and, finally, some Canadians -- particularly Vancouverites.

Another European transplant, from France, BeezKneez Hostel (bzkneez.com) staffer Sylvie says the aurora are a powerful draw.

"People sometimes stay out all night -- they go out night after night to watch them," she says.

"When they're intense, you can keep looking up at the sky all night long. It's almost unnatural."

If Canadians really do want to identify a national culture, discovering the magical wonders our own country has to offer is a very good place to start.

-- Postmedia News

How to stay warm & toasty

Northerners don't just love winter, they take the cold seriously and show it due respect, knowing how harmful prolonged exposure is.

"Ski clothes are OK to about -15 C, but when it's colder than that, you want to rent a warm clothing package," suggests Sebastian Altenberger.

"It's hard to enjoy the show if you're freezing and if you're always trying to warm up. You'll get tired really quickly -- it drains your energy."

Most aurora tour operators offer warm clothing rental packages that include a knee-length Canada Goose parka, Arctic-rated insulated boots, tuques, mitts, plus hand and foot-warmers.

"That parka is like wearing a tent and sleeping bag in one," Altenberger promises.

Republished from the Winnipeg Free Press print edition January 28, 2012 D7